The Castle Inn, West Lulworth

I recently journeyed down to the Dorset coast over the May bank holiday weekend for a relaxing time with my girlfriend. We decided on Lulworth cove, a popular coastal resort where we could relax and get away from the 'big smoke'. Our research led us to two or three bed and breakfasts in West Lulworth, Gatton House was one, and the Castle Inn was another. We looked at the website of the Castle Inn and saw that it came well recommended for food, and that it also had a bar where we could enjoy a tasty tipple after a hard day's exploring. We booked a double room two months in advance and looked forward to a carefree, relaxing weekend away.

Upon arriving at the Castle inn, we were greeted and shown to our room, which was small but pleasant, with a tv and drinks making facilities. The bathroom on the other hand was a whole different story. It was a nasty 60's pink, with the toilet seat was hanging off the rim. The toilet itself wouldn't have looked out of place in a student house. Not impressed for �65 a night. Anyway, we forgave them this, and went down to try some of their legendary food.

Being on the Montignac diet, which is a no carb diet (no potatoes, pastry, white flour etc), we were rather limited by the menu. With the exception of the specials board, which ranged from �13 to �17 for a dish, the main menu was making best use of the kitchen deep fryer. Everything came with chips or hash browns and onion rings, and there were no fresh vegetables in sight. The menu was not that impressive. Anyway, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I ordered a sirloin at �12, with a salad instead of chips, my girlfriend had the same. The salad was fine, though the chefs didn't seem to be able to help themselves as they piled a few deep fried onion rings on the plate for good measure. The steak......well, first of all it wasn't a sirloin, and second it was without a doubt the chewiest blandest specimen that has ever passed my lips. (I recently had a far better steak in a harvester). I was tempted to make a fuss, but all of the other guests seemed to be having such fun, that I didn't want to spoil their mood, and naturally I didn't want to upset myself. I live in Islington, London, near Upper Street, and with it's plethora of restaurants, I guess I'm spoilt for choice when it comes to good food at reasonable prices, but I just thought that visiting the countryside, I'd get some decent local produce, properly hung meat, and good value for money. So incensed was I by the poor food that I even lost sleep that night.

Breakfast the next morning wasn't that much better. Though I thought they might redeem themselves. I went for the full English, being on a low carb diet. There was no black pudding as listed in the menu (not to worry), the bacon was good, if a little dry, the sausage was deep fried greasy spoon style (not impressed) the scrambled eggs were dry and crumbly. I know what constitutes a good fry up, and I could have produced much better, in fact my old school breakfast was better than that.

It seems odd that a place with such a good reputation can deliver such a poor service. I though perhaps other people don't know what good food is, but that's ridiculous. I read on the website from a review in Dorset magazine that the castle inn has been "Successfully run by the Halliday family now for the past 12 years (since January 1983)," that means the article was written in 1995. Perhaps the Halliday family still run the place, perhaps..... if the Halliday family are from down under. I suspect that the pub was taken over by a chain, and run by the best bar and restaurant workers (aussies and kiwis) and since then they have done little to build on the reputation of the castle inn, instead serving poor quality pub food to visiting guest. If Gordon Ramsey does another series of Kitchen Nightmares, I'll recommend he pays them a visit. First thing they need to do is cut the menu down to size........and throw away the deep fryer, and get in touch with a good local butcher.

The reason I've gone to great lengths to write this review is that I had high hopes for a lovely weekend in the countryside, and unfortunately the Castle inn promised so much and delivered so little. Lulworth is a beautiful area, and we really enjoyed the weekend, it was just a little bit tainted by our experience. I hope that you will go in with your eyes wide open.

4 Jun 2004 11:23