The Sportsman, Luton

The Sportsman Pub in Luton seems an unlikely place to go for a delicious, well cooked and thoughtfully planned menu but after my initial trepidation, negotiating my way past the group of workmen standing outside having a cigarette, I was pleasantly surprised.

The pub itself leaves a bit to be desired, it�s a local good honest boozer with no unnecessary twidly bits and plush upholstery. The regular clientele seemed friendly enough and many seemed to know one another from casual acquaintance at the pub but I was here for the restaurant.

The chef, Sean Devlin, is a very convivial host and cares a great deal that he offers his patrons a good menu at reasonable prices. I have experienced his menu at the Ikon Hotel in Luton and certainly enjoyed his passion for good food. There are two menus on offer at The Sportsman. He explained that one is his lunchtime menu, adorned with mouth watering pictures of succulent lamb steaks with blackberries and a crisp looking baguette with gently melting brie and a zesty looking cranberry sauce. Credit to the photographer with this menu; my stomach certainly wanted a taste of the feast my eyes were enjoying! The lunch menu consists of traditional pub fare with baguettes, burgers and pies on offer, all at very reasonable prices with no more than about �6 for a main. Sean informed me that all food is cooked fresh from scratch with no processed and pre packaged food designed for those who think that cooking begins and ends with the ping of the microwave.

As it was a quiet night Sean was more than happy to oblige the dining patrons with food served from either the lunch or dinner menus. There was also a specials board and after briefly contemplating the rabbit stew I chose from the alternative dinner menu, slightly more expensive at about �8 for a main but with superb food like this you can�t go wrong. To start we were treated to some home made breads, almond and hazelnut and a delicate onion bread lightly toasted and again served with home made chicken liver pate, onion marmalade and a delicate spicy chilli jam. For my main course I opted for the chicken breast stuffed with cream cheese and herbs and wrapped in parma ham, served with dauphinoise potatoes and a rich tomato and bean sauce. The vegetables arrived in a separate bowl and there was more than enough for the two of us and when I checked it was confirmed that the peas were not only fresh, but shelled that afternoon by Sean himself. I couldn�t help myself I had to ask for a portion of the hand cut chunky chips and these too didn�t disappoint.

I didn�t have room for a pudding but Sean persuaded me to sample some of his home made (yes there is a theme here, hopefully the repetition will reinforce how good this food is and how wrong other establishments can get it with their cash and carry bought long life rubbish) vanilla and plum ice cream which was accompanied with warm white and dark chocolate sauces.

The only downside to eating here is the wine menu, or lack of one. The wines on offer behind the bar are synonymous with vinegar but as this is a brewery owned pub the only wines are available at the bar. It would be great if Sean could bring in some wines to compliment his fare and at these prices you could have a wonderful home cooked meal for two and a few drinks (but probably stick to the beer!) and still get change from �30.

Don�t judge a book by its cover and don�t judge The Sportsman by its exterior. Now I just need to get the menu photographer to make me look half as divine as he has made the food look!

18 Oct 2010 13:49