The Earl of Spencer, Southfields

The Earl Spencer is a real revelatory find amidst the culinary desert that is Southfields, not least because whoever was responsible for doing it up clearly values 'character' over design, resulting in a resolutely comfy, unpretentious-looking place. Equally, the chef clearly places faith in the time-honoured, oft-neglected virtues of first-class ingredients, properly prepared and cooked.For my visit I had atlantic prawns (I'm a sucker for seafood) and they were excellent, plump, juicy mouthfuls served in decent portions, whilst Ms Hater pronounced on her chicken terrine ajudgement delivered as 'ooh YEAH!'.
I followed up with pig's cheeks (i'm an uneven bigger sucker for unusual cuts) and -glory be! - They were served with sprouts, cooked by quite possibly the only other person in South London, apart from me, who actually both likes these criminally-vilified vegetables and knows how to cook them. Result? Hearty, punchy portion of pig and succulent, satisfying sprouts. Ms Hater, meanwhile - a lady who has been known to threaten legal action and/or diplomatic repercussions over steaks not cooked to her entire satisfaction - chewed and munched in contented near-silence over her Medium Rare one (with chips, carrots and some other veg I think) - and then said at the end, with a big smile "THAT'S how I like my steak".
Throw in friendly, charming staff and a couple of pints of decent Ale (Hooky), and all in all it was one contented, all-is-right-with-the-world couple who tottered back home.

19 Dec 2010 14:42